Presse

Burgundy Report 2021 - Vintage 2019

Fabien on 2019 and 2020:
the volumes for 19 are pretty good – nearly 49/hl/ha – 2020 looked like it had a lot more but there was only 42 hl/ha – as the amount of juice was very low. The actual versus the expectation was a very big difference – but after seeing the quality of the juice the smiles returned. It’s long time since we had the level of acidity – still a bizarre year but… The alcohols can be high in 2019, our vines in Vaillons already had grapes that were rich and 13.5° but they were not ready. I ended up with 14° here but I was worried that I’d be waiting for nothing as the acidity might go to zero – it turns out not to have been so!

The wines…

Long elevage here now – up to 2 years. The wines were in various stages of ‘open-ness’ but there are great wines here.

Elevage here – there’s nothing systematic – sometimes stainless, sometimes large-format barrels but usually it’s a blend:

2019 Petit Chablis
A small parcel of 0.16 ha, making a little over 1,000 bottles from the plateau of Chapelle la Vaupelteigne – the domaine’s smallest cuvée. Only this wine is bottled – still with 1 year of elevage – done in October.
Starting serious and mineral. Mouth-filling and energetic, slowly melting over the palate and offer more layers of flavour. Serious but also seriously good – a wine that opens wider and wider in the finish. Such a great finish for the label. Bravo!
 

2019 Chablis
The first of 3 cuvées – this the assembly of most parcels but never quite the same each year. The largest art of this from La Chapelle Vaupelteigne, it will have 18 months of elevage
Again a slightly smaller nose, less serious but still with a mineral depth, here the floral accent rounding it out. Vibrant, lovely minerality and complexity almost a suggestion of salinity – but not in the aromas. Gorgeously mineral finishing.

2019 Chablis Heritage
1940-1950 vines from 3 parcels – this will have 24 months elevage
A deeper, slightly reductive mineral aroma. Wider, more insistent, more mouth-watering. Great, great length. Class – bravo!

2019 Chablis Cuvée Claire
Named for Fabien’s first daughter. Essentially the same as the Chablis, but with its 18 months of elevage in 500-litre barrels – it’s almost what he’s looking for, but he’s now transitioning to 600-litre barrels and thinks that this might be what he wants.
A little riper impression to the citrus fruit – no loss of fresh energy. Mouth-filling, energetic, a suggestion of sweetness to add to the suggestion of salinity. Another gorgeous finish.

2019 Chablis 1er Côte de Léchet
2 ha, 1.5 really in the centre. Some court-noué so normally low yielding – ‘I’m always thinking about replanting!’ July-August bottling is the plan. There’s one large-format barrel but mainly it’s stainless-steel elevage.
Pure mineral energy not such a big nose but still an impressive one. Wider, more mouth-watering with melting mineral and citrus flavours. Almost a little zesty bitters in the finish. That’s a fantastic wine…
 

2019 Chablis 1er Vaillons
One 0.83 hectare parcel in Chatains.
A floral-fruit width of aroma – very inviting. Starting with a very open structure, slowly softening at the edges. Properly mineral finishing, some suggestion of sweetness but not of flowers. Long and contemplative here. Super starting more timid finishing – but the flavour not the actual length…

2019 Chablis 1er Montmains
One 0.75 hectare parcel in real Montmains. ‘Usually, our last parcel to be harvested – it’s the marnes, it’s a cold place.’
A slightly timid nose, accented with flowers. Nice attack and drive to this flavour – growing in intensity too. Vibrant width of finishing flavour – that’s really very good. Excellent wine.

2019 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A nice and open freshness of aroma but supported by a certain agrume-style reduction below. Wide, tactile wine – a little tannin in the texture here – grapefruit-style bitters as you head towards the finish. Really mouth-watering in the finish. This will be for keeping but it could be great!

European Accent French Special Edition

By Sally McGill

Resilience Amid Covid Chaos

 

 I have stayed in close contact with our French winery partners during the Covid-19 lockdown, just to check in about life in general, the 2020 growing season, and the preparation and collection of orders. 

Just as for myself, the initial reaction at Domaine Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils was one of shock and dismay, which was countenanced by relief that the government recognised wine as an essential service, and as such work was permitted to continue both in the cellar and in the vineyard. Leslie Lamblin, who works alongside current generation Fabien Dauvissat, wrote in late March “On our side as you must have heard France is starting to shut down and I'm afraid it's only the beginning. We've taken all necessary steps at the winery: my office is at home, orders are prepared by just one person and this will continue as will the work in the vines.” 

Then just last week, Leslie and Fabien got in touch again, this time with a happier mood brightened by the easing of lockdown and good news about the 2020 growing season: “We are doing good, the vines are doing GREAT! We're looking at a late August harvest as the vines have an advance of 2 weeks. No frost, no hail (touching wood) overall just a bunch of healthy vines.” However, while Lockdown in France is slowly lifting with restaurants able to reopen since early June, the predictions are for an overall closure in France of 30% to 50%. Fingers crossed this is not the case.

The Covid-19 shut down also caused many of us to stop and think, to reassess how we do things, and to grasp the opportunity to do things differently in the future. Fabien had already decided, pre-Covid-19, to do a wild ferment on the 2018 Montmains Premier Cru Chablis. Thus, it was already chalked as a later release, to be bottled in October 2020. With the success of this trial and the slowdown in the initial take up of the 2018 Premier Crus, Fabien has decided that from vintage 2019, the Chablis AOC will have 18 rather than 12 months in tank, and the Premier Crus will spend a full 2 years in tank prior to release.

The other project Fabien has been working on in recent years is Organic and Biodynamic farming. Achieving Certification means the entire Domaine must be worked organically and biodynamically, and thus far they are about half-way (for the fruit bottled as Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils). For some years Fabien has been using sustainable farming practices, and the Domaine is HVE Certified (Haute Valeur Environnementale).  

And so, Fabien and his skeleton cellar team managed to get the 2018 Chablis Premier Crus in bottle and we have just collected them for shipment, ETA mid-late August. Having sampled the Chablis AOC 2018 recently with the SA team, we were all excited by its intensity, balance, texture and freshness. Arriving are the following Jean Dauvissat Premier Cru Chablis: Côte de Léchet 2018; Vaillons 2018; Fourchaume 2018; and happily a bigger allocation than usual of the Homme Mort 2018!
 

ABOVE:  Fabien in the vineyards.  UNDER: The next generation

 


ChablisNews

juin 17, 2020

 

Domaine Jean Dauvissat : quand biodynamie rime avec Chablis (et Milly)



 

Mais où se cache Fabien Dauvissat ? Je pars à sa recherche sur les indications de sa grand-mère qui m’invite à m’aventurer seul dans le domaine. Il ne se trouve pas dans le hangar. Pas de trace de lui non plus à proximité des palettes prêtes à partir pour l’Australie, entreposées dans la magnifique cave voutée que je découvre au sous-sol. Le caveau de dégustation est désert. Les bouteilles des millésimes 2017 et 2018 vieillissent en paix dans la pénombre d’une cave plus petite. Soudain, un bruit de jet d’eau surgit du côté de la cuverie.

 

« Fabien ? » Je fais face à une cuve qui amplifie le vacarme de l’eau qui s’écrase avec force sur l’inox. Un visage apparaît dans l’ouverture. Il nettoie une cuve de 2018 qu’il vient de mettre en bouteilles et qui laisse un espace bienvenu au 2020 dont les vendanges sont anticipées pour la fin août déjà. Fabien se recroqueville pour s'extraire de la cuve et me salue avec un respect strict de la distanciation sociale en vigueur. Il a une légère barbe, est habillé comme un vigneron bourguignon qui ne se laisse pas distraire de son travail par la visite d'un journaliste. Des bottes en caoutchouc blanches et un sweat bleu céleste.

 

Biodynamie entamée en 2017

 

Il y avait longtemps que j’avais demandé ce rendez-vous à Fabien. Les aléas du travail à la vigne, mes propres activités et finalement le confinement nous avaient empêchés de nous retrouver jusqu’à ce vendredi nuageux de juin. Je souhaitais l’interroger sur la biodynamie qu’il avait commencé à pratiquer sur ses premiers crus (Côte de Léchet, Montmains, Vaillons, Fourchaume et L’homme mort) à partir de 2017 et qu’il a étendue aujourd’hui à dix des 22 hectares du domaine.


Fabien a 35 ans. Il est revenu en 2009 au domaine familial, fruit du mariage entre Christiane, sa grand-mère de Milly –c’est elle qui m’a accueilli lorsque j’ai provoqué les aboiements furieux d’un chien en frappant à la porte de la maison- et son grand-père Jean, qui provenait de la commune voisine de la Chapelle-Vaupelteigne. Malgré son nom de famille prestigieux dans le Chablisien, il n’avait aucun lien direct avec Vincent Dauvissat. Fabien a passé ainsi une décennie aux côtés de son père, consacrée essentiellement à revitaliser les sols des vignes bien fatigués après une cinquantaine d’années de viticulture traditionnelle. Une tâche plus ardue qu’il n’y paraît comme il l’a constaté le jour où il découvrit que les féveroles qu’il avaient semées dans les rangs comme engrais naturel n’avaient pas poussé. « On ne peut pas parler de terroir avec des sols en béton », reconnaît-il. Le sol était mort. Il devait le ressusciter.

 

Le jeune viticulteur se souvient encore de la réaction de sa grand-mère lorsqu’il décida de se passer des herbicides. C’était en 2011 peu après son arrivée au domaine. Elle lui rappela à quel point ces produits avaient été une révolution dans les années 1960 pour les viticulteurs du Chablisien, à genoux après trois années consécutives de disette à la fin de la décennie précédente. Les trente glorieuses accéléraient alors l’exode rural vers l’industrie. Un appel urbain qui attirait aussi les vignerons fatigués de courber l’échine sur les coteaux pendant qu’ils désherbaient.

 

En conversion depuis 2019

 

Tandis que nous discutons, Philippe, le père de Fabien, traverse la cave avec une connaissance pour rejoindre le caveau de dégustation et déguster un Vaillons 2018. Il me dévisage et observe le petit cahier jaune sur lequel je prends des notes. « Il nous est arrivé de ne pas être d’accord, mais il ne m’a jamais empêché de faire ce que je voulais », commente Fabien, lorsque je l’interroge sur le choc de ses idées avec celles des générations précédentes. « Maintenant, c’est lui qui me demande quand est-ce qu’on sème ».

 

Peut-être gêné par ma présence, son père ne fait aucun commentaire sur la bouillie bordelaise que Fabien a épandue la veille sur ses vignes pour anticiper une éventuelle attaque de mildiou. « Tu es bon pour recommencer », aurait-il pu lui lancer, après l’orage qui s’est abattu en soirée sur le vignoble. Fabien a choisi en 2019 d’initier la conversion en bio du domaine. Son fils avait depuis longtemps cessé d’utiliser les produits de synthèse décriés, n’ayant recours qu’aux « plus propres ». Mais il ne s’est finalement lancé dans la certification que l’an dernier quand il s’est senti capable d’assumer ce changement. Il est comme ça, Fabien. Il a une démarche scientifique qui le conduit à faire des essais pendant de longues années avant de se jeter à l’eau.

 

A propos d’eau, l’orage de la veille a fait des dégâts. Sur son portable, il me montre les photos des jeunes grappes frappées par la grêle qui s’est abattue sur les vignes de la Chapelle. Il espère que les baies touchées se remettront. « Ce millésime était si bien parti… ». Il n’en faut pas plus pour qu’il parle de la nature, de ses caprices et des bonheurs qu’elle lui donne depuis que les sols ont retrouvé leur splendeur perdue. Il en appelle au « bon sens agricole » pour travailler la terre avec respect. « Il faut traiter les vignes en père de famille », commente ce jeune papa. C’est vrai que le même verbe s’applique aux enfants et au vin que l’on « élève ». Fabien est aux petits soins avec ses parcelles qu’il parcourt tous les jours. « La biodynamie est avant tout basée sur l’observation ».

 

A ses yeux, si je puis dire, cette méthode est aussi un plus qu’il apporte à ses vignes. Comme tant d’autres vignerons qui sont passés à la biodynamie, il ne saurait apporter une explication rationnelle sur les bienfaits des balades au ralenti dans les vignes en agitant le bras de gauche à droite pour pulvériser en douceur à l’automne 100 grammes par hectare de bouse de corne. Ou ces trois grammes de silice par hectare censés capter la lumière dans les vignes.

 

Accompagner la vigne

 

Des méthodes souvent moquées par les partisans de la viticulture traditionnelle, auxquels Fabien répond : « essaie ». C’est son concept : expérimenter.  Il avait des doutes lui aussi, mais il a vite perçu la différence dans une parcelle dont il avait traité une partie en biodynamie et le reste en bio. « Il y avait plus d’humus, la terre ne collait pas contrairement à celle d’à-côté qui était plus déstructurée ». Il est convaincu des bienfaits enseignés par l’Autrichien Rudolph Steiner, même s'il ne le vénère pas pour autant « En bio, on protège. En biodynamie, on accompagne », résume-t-il.


Et puis, il y aussi ces vins en biodynamie que Fabien a dégustés et qui lui ont donné des frissons. Des émotions indéfinissables que d’autres viticulteurs ont aussi ressenties avant de faire le pas. C’est d’ailleurs son prochain objectif : consacrer ses efforts à la vinification après avoir revitalisé les sols. Finaliste des deux dernières éditions du concours des jeunes vignerons de Bourgogne, il préfère l’expression minérale du millésime 2014 à la rondeur des années solaires comme 2015, même s’il est très satisfait de la tension qu’il est parvenu à donner à ses 2018.

 

Il me fait goûter la cuvée 2019 qu’il élève au fond de la cave dans un demi-muid. Une complexité magnifique, très prometteuse. Tiens, les fûts sont autrichiens, la patrie de Rudolph Steiner. Un hasard, réplique-t-il. « J’ai mis dix ans à trouver le tonneau qui me convenait ». Comme Fabien est un adepte de l’élevage long, nous reviendrons dans une année déguster le résultat final. D’autant qu’il n’a plus de temps à me consacrer. Il doit aller chercher sa fille à l’école.

 

Par Antonio Rodriguez


Chablis Héritage 2014 -

2014 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis Heritage

Date: 11 Février 2020

Recommendation: Decanter 20 minutes. A boire maintenant jusqu'à 2029.

Day 1: Une valeur sublime pour une sublime bouteille de Chablis. Ouvert. Quelle nez. Profondément minéral. Citron vert. Aéré. Salin. Fruits de mer. Palait tendu avec une belle pureté et texture. Presque pas de fruits. Salé. Bonne structure et acidité.
Ce vin a un beau jus et belle longeuer. Parfaitement bien fait. Facilement qualité de Premier Cru. Tellement juteux, dense, pure. Brilliant.

Day 2: Nez imprésionnant. Fumé, zeste de citron vert, minéral, salin, citron, très odoré. Même quelques fleurs blanches. Palais juteux et complex. Une pureté dingue et équilibre parfait et fraîs. Bonne énergie et structure. A encore des années a faire. Superbe. 

Rockss and Fruit - Lyle Fass

Thursday, January 30, 2020

Maybe the Fass Wine that Will Increase the Most in Price over the Next Decade: Will Be Elite Chablis

 
Fabien Dauvissat Is Easily a Top 3 Producer in Chablis
 - His Wines Are Among the Most Underpriced in Burgundy
 - These Are Going to Be Very Expensive Some Day
 - His Wines Are Spectacular Candidates for Ageing

2018 Vintage
 - Old Timers Compare to 1982!
 - Terrific Depth and Fruit Character

2018 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis 1er Cru "Cote de Lechet"
- One of the Richest, Most Full Bodied, Balanced Chablis I've Ever Tasted
- If You Love Chablis, You MUST Try This Wine
- Almost Unheard of Levels of Concentration for Chablis 
- Massive Wall of Flavor (Rich, Fruit, Minerality, Acidity, Hints of Honey)
- Crazy Mineral Spice on the Finish
- There Is Almost Nothing Like this in Chablis

2018 Jean Dauvissat & Fils Chablis "Heritage"
 - One of the Great Values in Burgundy
 - Easily Premier Cru Quality for Under $30
 - Floral Nose, Intense on the Palate, Great Length

The Fame
Fabien Dauvissat of the Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils estate is now officially on the map as one of the top producers in the States.  He is increasingly popular in his native France and he has been discovered by 3 tier here in the states.  Prices will go up to reflect the quality that we've all come to enjoy.  He's been a top 5 Chablis producer (if not top 3) for 3 years and his wines are ridiculously underpriced as everyone on the list who has tried them knows.  It's good for Fabien, and lord knows he deserves it as he works his butt off.  But our little secret is out.

They sell out quickly and since he has been anointed by Stephen Tanzer and Vinous, the urgency is intense. The wines now are strictly allocated as he sells every bottle before they are even bottled. You cannot believe how hot he he is over in France. 

The Style
As I learn about my producers I am starting to think Fabien Dauvissat's wines are like Martin Muellen in the Mosel. How? Stay with me here. Martin's wines have an intensity to them no matter what vintage you have. They also have huge amounts of dry extract. These are chewy white wines but still because they come from great vineyards are attended to by great winemakers the wines have a sense of zen and refinement only the best whites in the world have. Also both of them use longer than normal aging regimens for the elevage which results in wines that can last an extraordinary amount of time open. Also they both are incredibly inexpensive for what they are and represent some of the more startling values in the portfolio.

They are rich, textured, and unabashedly Chablis with razor sharp ripping classic Fass Selections' acids, mineral/Kimmeridgian expression that is unparalleled. There is length, structure and most of all, these wines are Mariana Trench DEEP. The AC and the lieu dit AC have the depth of a 1er Cru and certain 1er Cru's, like today's have the depth of a Grand Cru. Fabien is incredibly talented and definitely has the special sauce.

These Wines Are Incredibly Ageworthy
The 2014 Cote de Lechet is now absolutely thrilling drinking as is the straight Chablis AC in 2014. Small term aging on these two wines has unreal ROI. They change so much in 3-4 years. Compelling. The textures get even better and the nose gets more detailed and nuanced. Now, the prices. It is hilarious to me how cheap these wines are. Even with a 25% tariff.

The Wines
First up I have the wonderful and epic 2018 Jean Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru "Côte de Lechet" for as little as $35.99 a bottle with a 4-pack purchase.  It's hard to describe how beautiful, complex and powerful this wine is. But I'll try.

Nose.  It has a super fine and very mineral, slatey nose. Really delicate and it also has some compelling and vivid herbal aromas after some slight coaxing in the glass. The nose is dense and really starts to activate at the 2 hour mark.

On the palate, this wine is like a living being struggling to form itself.  You taste it and your first
reaction is shock.  You can see the balance and traditional Chablis minerality but you know that there is more there.  As the wine aerates over 5-10 seconds, the concentration builds and builds.  After about 10 seconds the wine almost fills your head with fruit, minerality and just pure power.  The fantastic thing is that it stays balanced the entire time.  As much density as there is, there is that much minerality and acidic balance.  The wall of flavor is there but it's more like a wave as it comes towards the shore; first a little bump, then a wall and then a giant white foam crash as it hits the beach.  The finish is sick.  There is almost a mineral spice with lingering citrus fruit that some some of the most pure citrus I've ever tasted.  A good 30 second finish.  And the wine is still in its youth.

Really, the beauty of this Lechet is not something one comes across every day. It is special in every way. Long with super complex flavors and finesse with a profile more similar to Grand Cru Chablis. This is one of my favorite wines of the the vintage.

Next up is what I can unequivocally say is the silliest, tastiest, most value driven Chablis value we have offered since we were selling Sebastien Dampt's 11s for nothing. Today I can offer the 2018 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis "Heritage" for as little as $28.99 on a 4-pack. This is a RIDICULOUS deal. This has the power and depth of a very good premier cru Chablis . Easy.  This has the same elevage as the wonderful 1er Crus and is a selection of vines planted in the 40s and 50s. Simply put, the wine is amazing.  In the psycho value category.

Very, very floral nose with intense minerality and big step up over the regular Chablis AC. Seashells, seashore and even some salty mineral but also sweet lime pith. White flowers as well. Lime, apple skins, minerals, seashell complexity. Smoking. This has splendid density and length. So pure. Serious vigor and minerality to burn. There is great fruit and so much depth. Shows how juicy 2018 can be.


Palate has loads of acidity but also very clean fruit and salinity for days. Long and super refined on the finish. Palate is like drinking the ocean if it were made of Chardonnay. Seashells, good tannic grip, textured and deep. Sensational This has tremendous sap and energy that showcase how beautiful this vintage is. I know you will adore 2018 like I do. It's an incredible vintage and the style here at Dauvissat really suits it. His 2015s were also stunning. Maybe better than his 14s. And remember this in a normal vintage like 2017 has off the charts acidity, but in a vintage like 18, Fabien has pitch perfect acids. I think this will age for 5-10 years but is so appealing in its precocious youth. This will be allocated.

Bettane + Desseauve - Guide des Vins 2020

Petit Chablis 2017 - score 12.5
Agréable, pur et droit, vin équilibré et élégant.


Wine Enthusiast - 12/2019

Dégustation par Roger Voss:

1er Cru Montmains 2016 - 93points
 - Ce premier cru a produit un vin riche, structuré encore jeune. Un profile encore serré, définit par des fruits verts et une acidité vive. La densité du fruit indique une continuation en maturité et déguster à partir de 2021.

1er Cru Côte de Léchet 2015 - 93points
 - Mangues et poires mûres émergent de se vin mature. Ils se combinent avec des noix, épices et une texture riche et ronde. Une très example de la façon à laquelle les vins de Chablis changent avec l'age, tout en gagnant richeur et complexité. A déguster maintenant.

1er Cru Fourchaume 2016 - 92points
 - Un des Chablis Premier Cru le plus connus, ce vin est parfumé, fruité et encore rempli d'arômes de pommes. L'âge commence à emmener un caractère d'amandes griller au côté fruité. Ce vin est prêt a être déguster, mais sera encore mieux dans quelques mois.

Chablis Cuvée Claire 2015 - 91points
 - A maturé et devenu un vin très attirant. Le fruit vert pure et les arômes d'agrumes ont adoucis pour apporter des caractères noisettes, legèrement épicés et encore acidulé. Prêt a être déguster.


Le Guide Hachette des Vins 2019


Jasper Morris, Chablis 2016 Report, Nov. 2018

This was my first visit to a very interesting young producer, based in Milly, which has been revitalised since Fabien Dauvissat arrived at the domaine in 2009. It is all being done step by step and the journey is not finished yet. He began to plough the vineyards from 2012 (all of them by 2014), began trials with natural yeasts from 2015 (all the cellar from 2017), stopped using enzymes in 2016. He started organic farming from 2014 (but could not maintain during the difficult 2016 vintage) and now is trying biodynamic practises, but is not ready to start certification yet. The wines are fermented and matured in stainless steel (apart from two cuvees which see oak) and bottled after one year for village Chablis or 18 months for the crus).


2016 Chablis, Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 88 points
Vinified plot by plot and assembled late. Some is then deselected and sold in bulk. Only one bottling. This has a much greater wealth of fruit and stretches out very nicely on the palate. Significant density but the signs of future elegance. White fruit again.


2015 Chablis, Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 89 points
Very classic nose, just starting to build in character and quality. Attractive medium plus density, very stylish especially the texture. A lighter hand than in 2016.


2016 Chablis, Côte de Léchet 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 3***, 90 points
Clean in colour, crisp and fresh on the nose, with excellent fruit density. Pure broad white fruit dominates the palate, with a fine stony substrate giving the backbone. Long, pure and fine.


2016 Chablis, Vaillons 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
Pure, clear and elegant, lovely drinking tension here, very backward, leading to a pure dry stony finale, altogether a very fine example that needs keeping for two more years.

2016 Chablis, Montmains 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 92 points
This comes from the heart of Montmains, lots of clay with some marl below, a cool site takes a long time to ripen. The nose is tighter and less expressive than his Vaillons. But the palate develops really well, a few lemony touches to the basically white fruit, some apples, less chunky and more gracious at the end. Very persistent. There will not be much though. Just 10 hl/ha from three quarters of a hectare.

2015 Chablis, Montmains 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 3***, 90 points
The one vineyard hit by the hail. Still a pale colour but the nose demonstrates a riper yellower fruit. There is a slightly dry finish too from the vintage rather than the terroir. Still good wine but misses out on its full potential.


2016 Chablis, Fourchaume 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
The 2016 production was 30hl/ha from two plots in the middle of La Fourchaume. Excellent concentration of white fruit, minerals and leesy tannins at the back, but leaves a fine feeling at the finish.


2015 Chablis, Fourchaume 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
Clean, pure and bright with a touch of the cashmere. Dense on the palate with a firm backbone, modest flesh attached to it, a little trade of reduction. Good length but not the equal of his Vaillons.


2016 Chablis, L’Homme Mort 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
Fabien Dauvissat has made a separate bottling from his 0.15ha of l’Homme Mort since 2011. It is matured for 18 months in demi muid. The nose shows the wood though there is fruit fighting to join it. Superb finish though with fresh, long lemon acidity, excellent aftertaste.


2015 Chablis, L’Homme Mort 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
Pure clear pale colour, excellent weight of fruit infused by some wood notes which are not unattractive. The fruit unfolds very nicely on the palate but the wood takes up the finish a little bit more than is ideal. But this will interate and I can see that l’Homme Mort merits it.


Cash Impact 28/02/2018

Cash Impact: pesticides

Une belle image de la Bourgogne dans Cash Impact du 28/02/2018, avec un passage du Domaine.

https://youtu.be/wMur3yzqOQM?t=43m3s

 

 


Burgundy Report 2018 - vintage 2016

Fabien on 2017:
2017 brought less wine than in 2016 – we did half a harvest in 2016 – 2017 was one-third with an average of 20 hl/ha. Lots of places I thought looked okay after then frost – the buds were green, but in the centre it wasn’t correct so neither was the yield. I’m surprised about the quality – the malos are done and I expected a certain richness because there was the start of some porriture at harvest time, so for once I didn’t wait! I think if I’d waited 3 or 4 days longer there might have been a problem.

Fabien on 2016:
2016 was more complicated despite more wine than in 2017 – I lost about 25% to frost and another 25% to hail, but the wines are much more typical of Chablis after the 2015s. 5-6 hl/ha harvested in Maligny due to hail. Beines had a little frost but it wasn’t bad, Côte de Lechets only 10 hl on 2 ha due to frost. Vaillons 16 hl due to hail and Montmains is never high due to older vines. Then, just before the harvest, there was porriture in Chapelle de Vaupelteigne, but fortunately it didn’t really catch hold like in 2013. I was a little worried by it so took a standard yeast as I didn’t want something that reminded me of 2013 – in 2017 back to wild yeast.

“We are not bio but we do the maximum. I’m not really planning for certification, we work the soil on all 22 hectares of the domaine, but in a vintage like 2016 I reserved the right to make a particular treatment. There are some plots in full Biodynamie as tests…

The wines…

The Petit Chablis and Chablis are in bottle since the harvest, it will be about March for the 1ers. The wines are not currently fining – they usually are when I visit.

Just one of my top ten addresses in 2016 – in my continuum of 2009+ to classic, these wines are very close to classic, not to mention pure, mineral and quite agrume in style too.

 

2016 Petit Chablis
A small parcel of 0.16 ha, making a little over 1,000 bottles from the plateau of Chapelle la Vaupelteigne – the domaine’s smallest cuvée but a decent yield for 2016 with a little over 40 hl/ha.
A nice width of faintly saline but modestly open aromas. Ohh – that’s the most direct, silky delicious Petit Chablis I’ve tasted – easy – Bravo!

2016 Chablis
The classic cuvée here. ‘From the most interesting parcels. The parcels found less interesting are sold to the négoce, but each year it’s a little different so I vinify all parcels then decide.’
Direct, a little reduction, lots of depth of aroma because of that. Just a little reduction on the palate too – but so juicy, nicely mineral, melting, mouth-watering. This is really excellent. Super!

2016 Chablis Cuvée Claire
The cuvée for Fabien’s daughter – a parcel selection with elevage in demi-muids, none new. ‘It’s the clientelle that demand some oak.’ Both fermentations in tank followed by 6 months in demi-muids.
A little accent of oak but a freshness and more open nose. A little extra sweetness a little less direct but wide and equally energetic as that last. The finish has a little oak – more spicy than vanilla. This needs 12 months patience but will be super as there’s a beautiful and wide pure mineral impression in the finish.

The following all tasted from tank:

2016 Chablis Heritage
Looking for more length and minerality from this, didn’t really want to call it VV, But almost every year, blind tasting, it’s the 4 oldest parcels of the domaine – a 1950-60 planting above Chapelle de Vaupelteigne.
Open, fresh, faint and attractive reduction. Lots of volume, lots of concentrated flavour mouth-filling flavour, a weight of flavour in the mid-palate but always delivered with grace – excellent!

2016 Chablis 1er Côte de Léchets
2 ha, 1.5 really in the centre. Some court-noué so normally low yielding – ‘I’m always thinking about replanting!’
Such a beautiful and precise nose – not full power but a beauty. Wide, beautiful in the mouth, very classic despite an edge of ripeness to the fruit – simply a very beautiful wine – bravo!

2016 Chablis 1er Vaillons
One 0.83 hectare parcel in Chatains.
Like the last but with a more overt fruit impression – fresh fruit. A more agrume, a little less sweet, lots of complexity – there is more here though a little hint of austerity compared to the elegance of the last. Just a super wine again.

2016 Chablis 1er Montmains
One 0.75 hecatre parcel in real Montmains. ‘Usually our last parcel to be harvested.’
Ooh – what a super width of vibrating minerality – yes! Cool fruited, complex, mineral, attractively reduced. Beautiful classic, pure wine – bravo!

2016 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Narrower, deeper but not overtly reduced – very attractive nose. Really fills the mouth, mouth-wateringly intense, pure, grapefruit style fruit. To wait for but another brilliantly pure, attractive, classic Chablis – without austerity!


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Fabien on 2016:
2016 was half a harvest – but otherwise it’s not bad, the wines are quite concentrated, the malos are close to finished. It was an
advantage that we are spread over many small parcels – 5-6 hl/ha harvested in Maligny due to hail. Beines had a little frost but it wasn’t bad, Côte de Lechets only 10 hl on 2 ha due to frost. Vaillons 16 hl due to hail and Montmains is never high due to older vines. I would call it a complicated vintage. Then, just before the harvest, there was porriture in Chapelle de Vaupelteigne, but fortunately it didn’t really catch hold like in 2013.

“We are not bio but we do the maximum. I’m not really planning for certification, we work the soil on all 22 hectares of the domaine, but in a vintage like 2016 I reserve the right to make a particular treatment. There are some plots in full Biodynamie as tests…

Fabien on 2015:
I arrived back from holiday all smiles, the grapes looked perfect but then came the hail, 10 metres away was no problem the other side of the line was devastated.

“The 2015s here have not really finished elevage, the Petit Chablis and the Chablis see 12 months elevage, but it’s 18 for the Premiers. I had some worry about the acidity, but in the end I’m happy with how they are tasting – I had 14° and a pH of 3.4 for the Vaillons – this was only the wine with some acidification.

The wines…

April is planned for the bottling of the premiers. One of my favourite addresses – like most years!

2015 Petit Chablis
A small parcel of 0.16 ha, making a little over 1,000 bottles from the plateau of Chapelle la Vaupelteigne – the domaine’s smallest cuvée.
A hint of flowers, sweetness and herb too – very attractive. Mouth-filling, a little texture, fine flavour over the palate. Very fine PC!

2015 Chablis
The classic cuvée here, and the biggest with about 60,000 bottles. ‘From the most interesting parcels. The parcels found less interesting are sold to the négoce, but each year it’s a little different so I vinify all parcels then decide.’ This is the first vintage without a bought yeast for the whole cuvée.
A little herb and seashore – classic. More supple and finer textured, more melting complexity of flavour. More weight of flavour in the finish too. Long, fine. Excellent stuff!

2015 Chablis Cuvée Claire
The cuvée for Fabien’s daughter – a parcel selection with elevage in demi-muids, none new. ‘It’s the clientelle that demand some oak.’ Also 1 year elevage 1 yo barrels.
A deep nose, couched with oak notes, though a little more in the direction of spice than vanilla. Fresh, cool fruit, here is plenty of vanilla but also very fine fruit. For what it is, it’s absolutely delicious but you should be aware of the style…

2015 Chablis Heritage
Looking for more length and minerality from this, didn’t really want to call it VV, But almost every year, blind tasting, it’s the 4 oldest parcels of the domaine – a 1950-60 planting above Chapelle de Vaupelteigne.
A green hint to the colour. Fresh, a faintly floral and phenolic nose. Hmm, this has higher toned floral elements on the mouth, fine persistence too. Love this one.

2015 Chablis 1er Côte de Léchets
2 ha, 1.5 really in the centre. Some court-noué so normally 30-40 hl from small concentrated grapes.
A deeper nose of riper lemon fruit. Plenty of gas. Really mouth-watering flavour, sweetly mineral – no austerity, fine citrus complexity to finish – bravo!

2015 Chablis 1er Montmains
One 0.75 hecatre parcel in real Montmains. ‘Usually our last parcel to be harvested – I would have loved to give it another 15 days, but it wasn’t possible.’
Some ripe fruit, a little freshness too. Wide, fresh, hmm, this has gorgeous definition of fruit – slightly exotic but with beautiful balance and delivery. Excellent! Super finishing and very floral.

2015 Chablis 1er Vaillons
One 0.83 hectare parcel in Chatains.
A ripe fruit, shades of green and yellow citrus, slowly adding suggestions lf salinity. A hint of gas, but good volume and easy, lithe, mouth-watering flavour. Wide, wider on the mid-palate and a great wide line into the finish too. A persistent, fine, tasty wine – super.

2015 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Another nice colour, faintly green. A deeper nose, weighty fruit almost a hint fumé. Hmm, this has some green fruit, and a beautiful width, texture and presence. A little bitter fruit and salinity at the finish – really a very attractive wine – it reminds me of 2008 in fruit style, just a little more ethereal.

2015 Chablis 1er l’Homme Mort
All barrel elevage. The domaine’s smallest cuvée – there was none in 2013. Almost all sold to Au Fils du Zinc in Chablis.
The nose is a little marked by the oak. Fresh, wide, complex and with fine energy. This is very marked by the oak today but it is beautiful in the mouth. The finish has good intensity and great persistence too. Just a bit too oaky today for me to say more.

 


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