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Chablis Héritage 2014

Date: 2/11/20

Recommendation: Decant for 20 minutes. Drink now through 2029.

Day 1A brilliant value and brilliant bottle of Chablis. Wide open. What a nose. Deep mineral. Lime pith. Airy. Saline. Seashells. Palate is nervous and tensile with great purity and texture. Almost no fruit. Salty. Good structure and acidity. Such snap, sap and length on this wine. Amazingly well made. Easily 1er Cru quality. So juicy, so dense, so pure. Brilliant.

Day 2 Stunning nose. Smokey, lime zest, oodles of minerals, saline, lemon, very fragrant. Even some white flowers.  Palate is juicy and complex. Dazzlingly pure and wonderful balance and freshness. Great energy, lift and structure. Still has years ahead of it. Great. 

Rockss and Fruit - Lyle Fass

Thursday, January 30, 2020

Maybe the Fass Wine that Will Increase the Most in Price over the Next Decade: Will Be Elite Chablis

 
Fabien Dauvissat Is Easily a Top 3 Producer in Chablis
 - His Wines Are Among the Most Underpriced in Burgundy
 - These Are Going to Be Very Expensive Some Day
 - His Wines Are Spectacular Candidates for Ageing

2018 Vintage
 - Old Timers Compare to 1982!
 - Terrific Depth and Fruit Character

2018 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis 1er Cru "Cote de Lechet"
- One of the Richest, Most Full Bodied, Balanced Chablis I've Ever Tasted
- If You Love Chablis, You MUST Try This Wine
- Almost Unheard of Levels of Concentration for Chablis 
- Massive Wall of Flavor (Rich, Fruit, Minerality, Acidity, Hints of Honey)
- Crazy Mineral Spice on the Finish
- There Is Almost Nothing Like this in Chablis

2018 Jean Dauvissat & Fils Chablis "Heritage"
 - One of the Great Values in Burgundy
 - Easily Premier Cru Quality for Under $30
 - Floral Nose, Intense on the Palate, Great Length

The Fame
Fabien Dauvissat of the Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils estate is now officially on the map as one of the top producers in the States.  He is increasingly popular in his native France and he has been discovered by 3 tier here in the states.  Prices will go up to reflect the quality that we've all come to enjoy.  He's been a top 5 Chablis producer (if not top 3) for 3 years and his wines are ridiculously underpriced as everyone on the list who has tried them knows.  It's good for Fabien, and lord knows he deserves it as he works his butt off.  But our little secret is out.

They sell out quickly and since he has been anointed by Stephen Tanzer and Vinous, the urgency is intense. The wines now are strictly allocated as he sells every bottle before they are even bottled. You cannot believe how hot he he is over in France. 

The Style
As I learn about my producers I am starting to think Fabien Dauvissat's wines are like Martin Muellen in the Mosel. How? Stay with me here. Martin's wines have an intensity to them no matter what vintage you have. They also have huge amounts of dry extract. These are chewy white wines but still because they come from great vineyards are attended to by great winemakers the wines have a sense of zen and refinement only the best whites in the world have. Also both of them use longer than normal aging regimens for the elevage which results in wines that can last an extraordinary amount of time open. Also they both are incredibly inexpensive for what they are and represent some of the more startling values in the portfolio.

They are rich, textured, and unabashedly Chablis with razor sharp ripping classic Fass Selections' acids, mineral/Kimmeridgian expression that is unparalleled. There is length, structure and most of all, these wines are Mariana Trench DEEP. The AC and the lieu dit AC have the depth of a 1er Cru and certain 1er Cru's, like today's have the depth of a Grand Cru. Fabien is incredibly talented and definitely has the special sauce.

These Wines Are Incredibly Ageworthy
The 2014 Cote de Lechet is now absolutely thrilling drinking as is the straight Chablis AC in 2014. Small term aging on these two wines has unreal ROI. They change so much in 3-4 years. Compelling. The textures get even better and the nose gets more detailed and nuanced. Now, the prices. It is hilarious to me how cheap these wines are. Even with a 25% tariff.

The Wines
First up I have the wonderful and epic 2018 Jean Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru "Côte de Lechet" for as little as $35.99 a bottle with a 4-pack purchase.  It's hard to describe how beautiful, complex and powerful this wine is. But I'll try.

Nose.  It has a super fine and very mineral, slatey nose. Really delicate and it also has some compelling and vivid herbal aromas after some slight coaxing in the glass. The nose is dense and really starts to activate at the 2 hour mark.

On the palate, this wine is like a living being struggling to form itself.  You taste it and your first
reaction is shock.  You can see the balance and traditional Chablis minerality but you know that there is more there.  As the wine aerates over 5-10 seconds, the concentration builds and builds.  After about 10 seconds the wine almost fills your head with fruit, minerality and just pure power.  The fantastic thing is that it stays balanced the entire time.  As much density as there is, there is that much minerality and acidic balance.  The wall of flavor is there but it's more like a wave as it comes towards the shore; first a little bump, then a wall and then a giant white foam crash as it hits the beach.  The finish is sick.  There is almost a mineral spice with lingering citrus fruit that some some of the most pure citrus I've ever tasted.  A good 30 second finish.  And the wine is still in its youth.

Really, the beauty of this Lechet is not something one comes across every day. It is special in every way. Long with super complex flavors and finesse with a profile more similar to Grand Cru Chablis. This is one of my favorite wines of the the vintage.

Next up is what I can unequivocally say is the silliest, tastiest, most value driven Chablis value we have offered since we were selling Sebastien Dampt's 11s for nothing. Today I can offer the 2018 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis "Heritage" for as little as $28.99 on a 4-pack. This is a RIDICULOUS deal. This has the power and depth of a very good premier cru Chablis . Easy.  This has the same elevage as the wonderful 1er Crus and is a selection of vines planted in the 40s and 50s. Simply put, the wine is amazing.  In the psycho value category.

Very, very floral nose with intense minerality and big step up over the regular Chablis AC. Seashells, seashore and even some salty mineral but also sweet lime pith. White flowers as well. Lime, apple skins, minerals, seashell complexity. Smoking. This has splendid density and length. So pure. Serious vigor and minerality to burn. There is great fruit and so much depth. Shows how juicy 2018 can be.


Palate has loads of acidity but also very clean fruit and salinity for days. Long and super refined on the finish. Palate is like drinking the ocean if it were made of Chardonnay. Seashells, good tannic grip, textured and deep. Sensational This has tremendous sap and energy that showcase how beautiful this vintage is. I know you will adore 2018 like I do. It's an incredible vintage and the style here at Dauvissat really suits it. His 2015s were also stunning. Maybe better than his 14s. And remember this in a normal vintage like 2017 has off the charts acidity, but in a vintage like 18, Fabien has pitch perfect acids. I think this will age for 5-10 years but is so appealing in its precocious youth. This will be allocated.

Bettane + Desseauve - Guide des Vins 2020

Petit Chablis 2017 - score 12.5
Pleasant, pure and straight, balanced and elegant wine.


Wine Enthusiast - 12/2019

Tasting by Roger Voss:

1er Cru Montmains 2016 - 93points
 - This premier cru has produced a rich, structured wine that is still young. It's currently tight in profile, defined by tangy green fruit and bright acidity. There is density to the fruit, which indicates it will age further and be better from 2021. 

1er Cru Côte de Léchet 2015 - 93point
 - Mangos and ripe peaches arise from this mature wine. They combine with nuttiness, spice and a full, rounded texture. It provides a great example of how Chablis can change as it ages, gaining richness and complex flavors. Drink the wine now. 

1er Cru Fourchaume 2016 - 92points
 - From one of the most familiar of the premier crus in Chablis, this wine is fragrant, fruity and still full of apple flavors. Age is just beginning to catch up with it, bringing a toasted-almond character to the fruitiness. The wine is ready to drink, although another few months will make it even better. 

Chablis Cuvée Claire 2015 - 91points
 - This has matured into an attractive wine. Pure green-fruit and citrus flavors have softened to bring in some nutty characteristics, lightly spiced and still tangy. It is ready to drink.


Le Guide Hachette des Vins 2019


Jasper Morris, Chablis 2016 Report, Nov. 2018

This was my first visit to a very interesting young producer, based in Milly, which has been revitalised since Fabien Dauvissat arrived at the domaine in 2009. It is all being done step by step and the journey is not finished yet. He began to plough the vineyards from 2012 (all of them by 2014), began trials with natural yeasts from 2015 (all the cellar from 2017), stopped using enzymes in 2016. He started organic farming from 2014 (but could not maintain during the difficult 2016 vintage) and now is trying biodynamic practises, but is not ready to start certification yet. The wines are fermented and matured in stainless steel (apart from two cuvees which see oak) and bottled after one year for village Chablis or 18 months for the crus).


2016 Chablis, Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 88 points
Vinified plot by plot and assembled late. Some is then deselected and sold in bulk. Only one bottling. This has a much greater wealth of fruit and stretches out very nicely on the palate. Significant density but the signs of future elegance. White fruit again.


2015 Chablis, Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 89 points
Very classic nose, just starting to build in character and quality. Attractive medium plus density, very stylish especially the texture. A lighter hand than in 2016.


2016 Chablis, Côte de Léchet 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 3***, 90 points
Clean in colour, crisp and fresh on the nose, with excellent fruit density. Pure broad white fruit dominates the palate, with a fine stony substrate giving the backbone. Long, pure and fine.


2016 Chablis, Vaillons 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
Pure, clear and elegant, lovely drinking tension here, very backward, leading to a pure dry stony finale, altogether a very fine example that needs keeping for two more years.

2016 Chablis, Montmains 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 92 points
This comes from the heart of Montmains, lots of clay with some marl below, a cool site takes a long time to ripen. The nose is tighter and less expressive than his Vaillons. But the palate develops really well, a few lemony touches to the basically white fruit, some apples, less chunky and more gracious at the end. Very persistent. There will not be much though. Just 10 hl/ha from three quarters of a hectare.

2015 Chablis, Montmains 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 3***, 90 points
The one vineyard hit by the hail. Still a pale colour but the nose demonstrates a riper yellower fruit. There is a slightly dry finish too from the vintage rather than the terroir. Still good wine but misses out on its full potential.


2016 Chablis, Fourchaume 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
The 2016 production was 30hl/ha from two plots in the middle of La Fourchaume. Excellent concentration of white fruit, minerals and leesy tannins at the back, but leaves a fine feeling at the finish.


2015 Chablis, Fourchaume 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
Clean, pure and bright with a touch of the cashmere. Dense on the palate with a firm backbone, modest flesh attached to it, a little trade of reduction. Good length but not the equal of his Vaillons.


2016 Chablis, L’Homme Mort 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
Fabien Dauvissat has made a separate bottling from his 0.15ha of l’Homme Mort since 2011. It is matured for 18 months in demi muid. The nose shows the wood though there is fruit fighting to join it. Superb finish though with fresh, long lemon acidity, excellent aftertaste.


2015 Chablis, L’Homme Mort 1er Cru Domaine Jean Dauvissat & Fils, 4****, 91 points
Pure clear pale colour, excellent weight of fruit infused by some wood notes which are not unattractive. The fruit unfolds very nicely on the palate but the wood takes up the finish a little bit more than is ideal. But this will interate and I can see that l’Homme Mort merits it.


Cash Impact

Cash Impact: pesticides

A nice picture of Burgundy in Cash Impact's last episode (February 28th 2018), with a passage of our Domaine.

https://youtu.be/wMur3yzqOQM?t=43m3s

 


Burgundy Report 2018 - vintage 2016

Fabien on 2017:
2017 brought less wine than in 2016 – we did half a harvest in 2016 – 2017 was one-third with an average of 20 hl/ha. Lots of places I thought looked okay after then frost – the buds were green, but in the centre it wasn’t correct so neither was the yield. I’m surprised about the quality – the malos are done and I expected a certain richness because there was the start of some porriture at harvest time, so for once I didn’t wait! I think if I’d waited 3 or 4 days longer there might have been a problem.

Fabien on 2016:
2016 was more complicated despite more wine than in 2017 – I lost about 25% to frost and another 25% to hail, but the wines are much more typical of Chablis after the 2015s. 5-6 hl/ha harvested in Maligny due to hail. Beines had a little frost but it wasn’t bad, Côte de Lechets only 10 hl on 2 ha due to frost. Vaillons 16 hl due to hail and Montmains is never high due to older vines. Then, just before the harvest, there was porriture in Chapelle de Vaupelteigne, but fortunately it didn’t really catch hold like in 2013. I was a little worried by it so took a standard yeast as I didn’t want something that reminded me of 2013 – in 2017 back to wild yeast.

“We are not bio but we do the maximum. I’m not really planning for certification, we work the soil on all 22 hectares of the domaine, but in a vintage like 2016 I reserved the right to make a particular treatment. There are some plots in full Biodynamie as tests…

The wines…

The Petit Chablis and Chablis are in bottle since the harvest, it will be about March for the 1ers. The wines are not currently fining – they usually are when I visit.

Just one of my top ten addresses in 2016 – in my continuum of 2009+ to classic, these wines are very close to classic, not to mention pure, mineral and quite agrume in style too.

 

2016 Petit Chablis
A small parcel of 0.16 ha, making a little over 1,000 bottles from the plateau of Chapelle la Vaupelteigne – the domaine’s smallest cuvée but a decent yield for 2016 with a little over 40 hl/ha.
A nice width of faintly saline but modestly open aromas. Ohh – that’s the most direct, silky delicious Petit Chablis I’ve tasted – easy – Bravo!

2016 Chablis
The classic cuvée here. ‘From the most interesting parcels. The parcels found less interesting are sold to the négoce, but each year it’s a little different so I vinify all parcels then decide.’
Direct, a little reduction, lots of depth of aroma because of that. Just a little reduction on the palate too – but so juicy, nicely mineral, melting, mouth-watering. This is really excellent. Super!

2016 Chablis Cuvée Claire
The cuvée for Fabien’s daughter – a parcel selection with elevage in demi-muids, none new. ‘It’s the clientelle that demand some oak.’ Both fermentations in tank followed by 6 months in demi-muids.
A little accent of oak but a freshness and more open nose. A little extra sweetness a little less direct but wide and equally energetic as that last. The finish has a little oak – more spicy than vanilla. This needs 12 months patience but will be super as there’s a beautiful and wide pure mineral impression in the finish.

The following all tasted from tank:

2016 Chablis Heritage
Looking for more length and minerality from this, didn’t really want to call it VV, But almost every year, blind tasting, it’s the 4 oldest parcels of the domaine – a 1950-60 planting above Chapelle de Vaupelteigne.
Open, fresh, faint and attractive reduction. Lots of volume, lots of concentrated flavour mouth-filling flavour, a weight of flavour in the mid-palate but always delivered with grace – excellent!

2016 Chablis 1er Côte de Léchets
2 ha, 1.5 really in the centre. Some court-noué so normally low yielding – ‘I’m always thinking about replanting!’
Such a beautiful and precise nose – not full power but a beauty. Wide, beautiful in the mouth, very classic despite an edge of ripeness to the fruit – simply a very beautiful wine – bravo!

2016 Chablis 1er Vaillons
One 0.83 hectare parcel in Chatains.
Like the last but with a more overt fruit impression – fresh fruit. A more agrume, a little less sweet, lots of complexity – there is more here though a little hint of austerity compared to the elegance of the last. Just a super wine again.

2016 Chablis 1er Montmains
One 0.75 hecatre parcel in real Montmains. ‘Usually our last parcel to be harvested.’
Ooh – what a super width of vibrating minerality – yes! Cool fruited, complex, mineral, attractively reduced. Beautiful classic, pure wine – bravo!

2016 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Narrower, deeper but not overtly reduced – very attractive nose. Really fills the mouth, mouth-wateringly intense, pure, grapefruit style fruit. To wait for but another brilliantly pure, attractive, classic Chablis – without austerity!


Tim Atkins - Burgundy report

Vintage 2016, on a total of 100 points


Guide Hachette des vins 2018

Guide Hachette 2018 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils


Stephen Tanzer for Vinous


Guide Hachette of Good Deals 2017

Chablis Montmains Guide Hachette 2017


Burgundy Report 2017

 

Fabien on 2016:
2016 was half a harvest – but otherwise it’s not bad, the wines are quite concentrated, the malos are close to finished. It was an
advantage that we are spread over many small parcels – 5-6 hl/ha harvested in Maligny due to hail. Beines had a little frost but it wasn’t bad, Côte de Lechets only 10 hl on 2 ha due to frost. Vaillons 16 hl due to hail and Montmains is never high due to older vines. I would call it a complicated vintage. Then, just before the harvest, there was porriture in Chapelle de Vaupelteigne, but fortunately it didn’t really catch hold like in 2013.

“We are not bio but we do the maximum. I’m not really planning for certification, we work the soil on all 22 hectares of the domaine, but in a vintage like 2016 I reserve the right to make a particular treatment. There are some plots in full Biodynamie as tests…

Fabien on 2015:
I arrived back from holiday all smiles, the grapes looked perfect but then came the hail, 10 metres away was no problem the other side of the line was devastated.

“The 2015s here have not really finished elevage, the Petit Chablis and the Chablis see 12 months elevage, but it’s 18 for the Premiers. I had some worry about the acidity, but in the end I’m happy with how they are tasting – I had 14° and a pH of 3.4 for the Vaillons – this was only the wine with some acidification.

The wines…

April is planned for the bottling of the premiers. One of my favourite addresses – like most years!

2015 Petit Chablis
A small parcel of 0.16 ha, making a little over 1,000 bottles from the plateau of Chapelle la Vaupelteigne – the domaine’s smallest cuvée.
A hint of flowers, sweetness and herb too – very attractive. Mouth-filling, a little texture, fine flavour over the palate. Very fine PC!

2015 Chablis
The classic cuvée here, and the biggest with about 60,000 bottles. ‘From the most interesting parcels. The parcels found less interesting are sold to the négoce, but each year it’s a little different so I vinify all parcels then decide.’ This is the first vintage without a bought yeast for the whole cuvée.
A little herb and seashore – classic. More supple and finer textured, more melting complexity of flavour. More weight of flavour in the finish too. Long, fine. Excellent stuff!

2015 Chablis Cuvée Claire
The cuvée for Fabien’s daughter – a parcel selection with elevage in demi-muids, none new. ‘It’s the clientelle that demand some oak.’ Also 1 year elevage 1 yo barrels.
A deep nose, couched with oak notes, though a little more in the direction of spice than vanilla. Fresh, cool fruit, here is plenty of vanilla but also very fine fruit. For what it is, it’s absolutely delicious but you should be aware of the style…

2015 Chablis Heritage
Looking for more length and minerality from this, didn’t really want to call it VV, But almost every year, blind tasting, it’s the 4 oldest parcels of the domaine – a 1950-60 planting above Chapelle de Vaupelteigne.
A green hint to the colour. Fresh, a faintly floral and phenolic nose. Hmm, this has higher toned floral elements on the mouth, fine persistence too. Love this one.

2015 Chablis 1er Côte de Léchets
2 ha, 1.5 really in the centre. Some court-noué so normally 30-40 hl from small concentrated grapes.
A deeper nose of riper lemon fruit. Plenty of gas. Really mouth-watering flavour, sweetly mineral – no austerity, fine citrus complexity to finish – bravo!

2015 Chablis 1er Montmains
One 0.75 hecatre parcel in real Montmains. ‘Usually our last parcel to be harvested – I would have loved to give it another 15 days, but it wasn’t possible.’
Some ripe fruit, a little freshness too. Wide, fresh, hmm, this has gorgeous definition of fruit – slightly exotic but with beautiful balance and delivery. Excellent! Super finishing and very floral.

2015 Chablis 1er Vaillons
One 0.83 hectare parcel in Chatains.
A ripe fruit, shades of green and yellow citrus, slowly adding suggestions lf salinity. A hint of gas, but good volume and easy, lithe, mouth-watering flavour. Wide, wider on the mid-palate and a great wide line into the finish too. A persistent, fine, tasty wine – super.

2015 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Another nice colour, faintly green. A deeper nose, weighty fruit almost a hint fumé. Hmm, this has some green fruit, and a beautiful width, texture and presence. A little bitter fruit and salinity at the finish – really a very attractive wine – it reminds me of 2008 in fruit style, just a little more ethereal.

2015 Chablis 1er l’Homme Mort
All barrel elevage. The domaine’s smallest cuvée – there was none in 2013. Almost all sold to Au Fils du Zinc in Chablis.
The nose is a little marked by the oak. Fresh, wide, complex and with fine energy. This is very marked by the oak today but it is beautiful in the mouth. The finish has good intensity and great persistence too. Just a bit too oaky today for me to say more.

 


Wine Life Channel

Day 1 - Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne


Burgundy Report 2016



Bourgogne Aujourd'hui


Burgundy Report 2015


Burgundy Report 2014


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